TRANQUIL IN TRANCOSO — What Would Wu Wear?

The way I see it, the best time to take a summer vacation is during the winter, which is why my family and I packed our bags to spend Christmas in Trancoso, a remote beach town in the Bahia state of Brazil.

This is the perfect spot to get away: the community has made an effort to keep this beach town authentic to its roots, meaning that there are no large resort developments, and lodgings are mostly private villas. As we were traveling with our kids as well as my nieces, we opted to rent a house close to both the beach and the city center, or “Quadrado.”

Our Home

The house we stayed at was architecturally beautiful and the furnishings inside and out matched it including welcoming lounge chairs around the Infiniti edge pool and canopies that complement the natural surroundings, and the house staff made sure the caipirinhas were always flowing. It was located about 15 minutes from the Quadrado in a place called Terravista.

My husband and I are both golfers, and readers of my blog will know I can’t go too long without a game of tennis, so Terravista was the place for us. A resort community made of various-sized homes instead of hotel rooms, Terravista had everything we wanted: a space big enough for our full house, access to golf and tennis, as well as private beach access…

…And by “access,” I don’t mean a rickety gate that opens to a sandy path that leads to the beach. Because the resort is on the top of a cliff and the beach is (obviously) below, access is via funiculars, essentially a mountainside trolley car. Getting to the beach is an experience in itself, but the destination is also breathtaking.

The Quadrado

Anyone who’s seen Beyoncé’s Blue video will be familiar with the centerpiece of the Quadrado, the Igreja de São João Batista, pictured in one of the scenes where she plays soccer with a group of local kids. Bordering the other three sides of the Quadrado, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are colorful houses that, by now, are mostly storefronts and restaurants. The shops feature local artists, many of whom have been there since the ‘70s. The restaurants are ultra-casual, and it’s common to go for dinner at the nice Italian place – or any “nice” place, for that matter – in Haviana flip flops and t-shirts.

My favorite place to eat on the Quadrado was Capim Santo, the oldest restaurant in Trancoso that serves traditional Bahian cuisine. Il Mercato was a one-stop shop for both artwork and Italian food, so we browsed while we waited for our order. Second fav was El Gordo! My go-to for after-dinner drinks was Jacaré do Brasil, a more buttoned-up version of the casual local bars we visited. Plus, the space is trendy and drinks are strong.

Of course, drinking isn’t only for nighttime! For my morning coffee fix, I headed to the aptly named The Coffee Bar for locally grown produce, organic breakfasts and some amazing iced coffee to a) wake me up, and b) beat the humidity. Adventurous travelers can partake of the hookah, but I stuck with my tried-and-true caffeine.

Local Culture

Normally when I travel I encounter a few Americans (and definitely more than a handful of Australians) while I wander through whatever town or city I happen to be. This time, however, was completely different. The only English-speakers I interacted with during the entire trip were my family; thank goodness for my son Grant, who speaks fluent Portuguese. He was a reliable translator and helped us navigate the unpaved roads and locate sign-less restaurants by asking Bahians for help.

And while the locals still make up the majority of the population in Trancoso, it’s important to note that this little beachside town is gaining popularity among the international jet set. Anderson Cooper and Eddie Vedde have been known to vacation here, as well as brasileiras Alessandra Ambrosio and Gisele Bündchen. (Although, I’m sad to report, we only ran into one of them!).

While We’re in the Neighborhood…

Because we were in the area, we took a side trip to Iguazu Falls, a natural wonder that makes Niagara look like a water fountain. The falls are located inside Iguazu National Park, and form part of the border of Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil. We stayed at the Belmond Hotel, the only hotel in the park and a stone’s throw to the falls. I’ll never forget the phenomenal view and eerie solitude of visiting the falls at 7:30 in the morning. It’s haunting, and an important reminder for me: even though I’m always on the hunt for arts and culture when I’m on vacation, it’s important to take a break to experience the majesty of nature.

Wishing you #OnlyJoy for 2020.